My friend Rose and I are known amongst our mutual friends for our deep and profound love of ham. This manifests itself most strongly in our Christmas discourse, when for a period of roughly three weeks our communications are either solely ham-related, or at least 50% of each communication is about ham. At its most extreme, and most moving, this can involve one word text messages - 'HAM' in capital letters. A one word missive that communicates so very much.
Last week, I asked Rose what our unified response to the notion of an Easter Ham is. She informed me, quite rightly, that; 'at Easter ham must stand aside for "LAMB"'. We did, however, agree that ham is permissable on Easter Monday, and that ham is permissable on Easter Day provided that Lamb is also present as the focal point. It was good to have clarification on this important issue.
With this in mind, I give you my recipe for Easter Lamb (and indeed Lamb at any other time). Of course there is much symbolism surrounding lamb at Easter. We naturally think of Christ the Paschal lamb, of the lambs of the Jewish Passover feast, and also more generally of dainty little creatures gamboling through spring pastures. But I've been far too reflective of late, so let's just get on with the food.
You will need:
4 - 4 and a half lb leg of good lamb
A big bunch of fresh rosemary
Six or seven fat garlic cloves
8 oz pancetta
1 and a half pts wine
An onion - roughly sliced
Wash the rosemary, and peel the garlic. Reserve around 20 rosemary 'tops'. Chop the remaining rosemary and garlic together until both are finely chopped. Chop the pancetta too. It gets quite sticky. You could use a food processor for this, but you do want the pancetta to be recognisable in pieces and not a paste. Mix the pancetta with the garlic. It should be in part a sticky paste, but also with lots of decently sized lumps of meat. I'm making this sound lovely, aren't I?
Then get your lamb. Pierce the flesh every 2 inches or so with the point of a small, sharp, paring knife. Now put the rosemary tops into the holes and rub the pancetta/garlic/rosemary paste all over the lamb. Place the lamb in a large roasting tin on top of the sliced onions and pour over a good amount of olive oil, and about half a pint of wine (either red or white, it doesn't matter - I actually like white as it makes it a bit lighter). Cover and leave over night somewhere cool. Ideally not in the fridge, unless it's really too warm everywhere else.
The next day, preheat the over to 220C for about 20 minutes. Then put the lamb into roast for twenty minutes. After this pour over the rest of the wine and reduce the temperature to 200C. Roast for a further forty minutes. Once this time is up baste, and check to see how the lamb is doing. It should be getting there and the crust should have formed nicely. Give it an extra ten minutes after basting. Now take the lamb out of the oven, take the crust off and put it in a serving dish. Then baste, and return the lamb to the oven for half an hour longer.
Remove the lamb from the oven, cover with foil, and allow to rest for half an hour whilst you finish potatoes and vegetables etc, and make a nice gravy with the pan juices and onions. This will give you a nice pink leg of lamb. If you want it rarer or more well done then it's pretty obvious what you need to do.
These photos are from last year's Easter lamb. This year I know that lamb is on the menu in the Abbey too... which, of course, is right and proper. However, I was beyond delighted to find out that in addition to lamb, Br Dunstan also intends to do a HAM!